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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. R19 vs R21 insulation? Thread starter naturalgas Start date Oct 7, I'm getting ready to insulate the walls in my garage and looking for some advice. First of all it is a 36x40 x12 garage. The ceiling is already done with R38 batts and plastered.
There is a lot of foundation in this as it is built into a banking. Of concrete 12" thick. The upper walls are 2x6 and that's what I will be insulating. Here is the?. Is it worth the extra cost to put R21 vs R19 in the walls? I have good Anderson windows and good R value garage doors. Any thoughts on this? R19 or R21? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk. My own garage? What are you going to use for heat? FWIW, I think sloppy installation of fiberglass is it's biggest downfall.
I try to be thorough. Rockwool Comfortbatt R23 All Sizes. Nationwide Delivery. Secure Payments. Expert Advice. Please Note: Due to excessive shortages in raw material some orders may be delayed prior to dispatch. Insulation4US will notify the customer if there are delays. Insulation R-Values Guide. Video Guide on R-Values. R49 to R If the attic already has a layer of insulation up to the top of the joists, use unfaced insulation, with the new batts installed perpendicular to the joists.
Blown fiberglass or cellulose insulation is usually installed by an insulation contractor, but DIY blown cellulose insulation is also available. Loose fill cellulose insulation for blowing can be purchased at home centers and blowers are available to rent.
Spaying expandable foam insulation is a job that should be left to professionals. But still wear the appropriate attire. Insulation R-value is only valid in still air. If you have a breeze going through your attic from soffit or roof vents it will degrade the R-value of exposed fiberglass insulation. The best results are gained by decking over the insulation, using a sheet product over exposed fiberglass insulation, or sealing up the attic completely and using a foam product under the roof deck to make the attic an enclosed space.
A valid point, but I would be concerned that a sheet product, like plastic, on top of attic insulation could cause condensation to form under it in the winter. There are some sheet products I have heard about that are perforated to prevent becoming a vapor barrier.
I am Finishing my basement and have come across moisture in the insulation that is wrapped around the basement walls and is wondering if that is common, also what I should do about it? If you have visible moisture in a fully enclosed under ground basement. Is it a new house? Is the moisture beads of water? Do the walls have white efflorecencent salts in the water that form on the surface lines on the walls: which would be from outside in?
If 3 is yes than the water is coming from the ground and the water proofing is compromised on the exterior of the concrete wall, in which you need to stop the water. If 2 is yes then the moisture is condensation from the inside,which can be altered by a dehumidifier.
Over all the source needs to be determined so you know what to fix. I want to insulate the floors, but am just figuring all this out. What would be the best thing to use under the house? Lani H and others Te insulation that is there now may or may not me adequate, so add to it-use reflective backed foam board if in doubt- alter the seams then tape them with foil tape. Which helps to know how much has been compromise in case a tradesmen has to work in the area at a later date.
Bating is more likly to get put back than that fluffy stuff. I live in central Georgia. Any thoughts on how to best accomplish this and choice of insulation is greatly appreciated. I forgot to mention that the building is clad in aluminum siding. Also, moisture control is important as my area is very humid most of the year. I live in Raleigh North Carolina and would like to insulate my attic. My house is approximately sq feet and was built in The attic has had no upgrade of insulation since.
It now has roughly 3 to 4 inches of blown cellouse insulation. I am leaning towards insulation of pink fiberglass with a R rating.
Is this enough insulation? Thank you. Ellis Farris. I inherited my grandfathers farmhouse built in Although I grew up playing there and visiting since then, it is now my responsibility to take care of it.
We have spent the last year working on the obvious and last year we only had a fireplace for heat. After purchasing a propane tank I thought my heat problems were over, Wrong! After examining under the house with about a 16 inch crawlspace, I have discovered that there is no insulation or sub floor.
Only hardwood floors over the 2X6 joists. I have been researching insulation and after seeing your show on the weather channel I still have questions. Would an R with facing be sufficient?
Also, since this is literally off the ground no basement should I enclose the insulation? It appears that I should put in batting face side to floor and am considering using a basic plywood across the joist. Since I have 6 inch joist, should my insulation be 6. How much improvement in comfort and utility bill should I expect?
There is nothing blocking the wind from coming underneath the house. Check out the article and video from our Scariest Utility Bill episode to see how to go about insulating under a floor. Just in case the creek were to ever rise that high again, I need water to have the ability to flow versus rising.
If I buy faced and staple with facing close to floor, at most I will leave an inch and half from the bottom of the joists. This air flow should assist with moisture evaporation, so I think the 6. I am looking at osb board to put on the bottom of the joists, what do you think? Also, I will ck this weekend to see how much, if any, insulation is in the attic.
Since warm air rises, I think my first attack should be in the attic and then the floor. I used a calculator and it said to insulate to R for this area. Currently, there is no attic access, but it has a metal roof. I am thinking of blowing insulation in by removing sections of roofing. Any advice would be appreciated.
As far as under the house goes, it would be okay to attach OSB to the bottom of your joists. You might want to screw them on with drywall screws and a cordless drill so you could easily take it off in case it floods and the insulation gets soaked.
Good luck with your project! Thanks Ben! My son and I got into the attic this past weekend and guess what we found??? NO Insulation whatsoever!!!! Just wood ceilings and rafters with Tin overhead!
We have measured and are getting ready to get started. It appears that R is no longer the standard minimum.
Looks like R to R is more the current minimum. Since I have no insulation, I should see a huge difference in comfort and bills just from the R! Will tackle underneath later as you suggested. Thanks for your help. Now if you can tell me how to keep the pipes from freezing under the house, I am all ears!
We upgraded from R19 to R 21 based on another builders spec sheet and our builder was doing an apple to apples comparison.
They want to give us The R value chart is just one of several ways to meet the building code energy conservation requirement. If the builder uses one of the other methods, it will be possible to upgrade the insulation elsewhere and achieve the same overall energy conservation goal. The reason to use the chart is if you intend to meet or exceed that higher standard anyway or for a partial renovation or addition.
This would give you an additional R2. Exterior insulation is a great idea but the climate should be considered before making that decision. As usual, we don't know much about the house in question. I rather doubt that the builder will run an independent energy performance analysis to justify increasing R values elsewhere.
But, presuming that the R19 meets the prescriptive Code, that's a great approach to obtaining an overall better result by increasing the insulation elsewhere. The roof or attic is the most obvious place to up the RValue by adding insulation.
If possible, add foam insulation, etc. The house is sided already and I know what do I know really as this is all over my head that they used a foam to seal the rooms a fire stop foam I believe haha my husband works for Hilti. We are not going to have them replace the insulation as the company they use said it is about a 4 week delay for it to come in and we are not willing to wait an extra month for our house to be done.
Yea I get it, because the ceiling temperature is higher so there is a higher temperature differential and more heat loss, but not with radiant floor heating. Anyway it doesn't matter, ceiling, walls or floor it's all about temp differential.
Do you know why they put R19 in a 2 x 6 walls? Because that's all they can get in it! The only reason. Because the ceiling is warmer the differential will be higher.
With R40 and a 60 degree temperature differential you would lose 1. A wall with R20 and a 50 degree differential as an average would lose 2. Now if we could only get windows that were R30, life would be better.
Both are designed to go into a 2x6 framing. But if R doesn't meet code, they need to add some solid foam insulation somewhere to make up the difference. Perhaps as you go on to illustrate, it's hard to come up with any other place to do it practically in a house that's already, framed and sided.
In the municipalities in which we work, there is a mandatory insulation inspection prior to drywall. If the insulation R-value in the walls didn't meet code it would have been rejected and drywall work would not be allowed to commence. Not sure what inspections are like in the OP's locale. Insulation R-values are measured under controlled conditions in laboratory environments.
Just like with cars, actual mileage may vary. In a real wall assembly installed by the typically insulation contractor, I don't think you'll see the calculated difference in thermal performance between R and R Air sealing and adding additional insulation in attics is a great way to improve performance and increase comfort.
Many construction materials in our area are available on an allocation basis and the price escalation keeps me up at night.
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